Some twelve hundred years ago, Tang Dynasty poet Li Po described the challenge of navigating China's mighty Yangtze River as "difficult, even harder than climbing to the blue sky." The journey just got a whole lot easier.

Century Sky is a 306-passenger vessel targeted to the Western market. For the design, Century Sky Cruises called on Oslo-based architects Yran & Storbraaten of Seabourn and Silversea fame. To build the vessel.

Twice as big as the Century Star, the contemporary Scandinavian and Asian-inspired Century Sky offers the intimacy of a river boat with amenities of a cruise ship (including western galley, elevators, spa, and fitness room).

Dining
The 300-plus passengers are comfortably accommodated in one open seating in the elegant main deck restaurant. Asian-inspired ceiling lights add a nice touch, as do fresh bouquets of fresh flowers on the central buffet. Room service is not available. Afternoon tea is held each afternoon. Complimentary hot tea, coffee, iced tea and ice water are served with meals; soft drinks, bottled water and alcoholic beverages are available at an additional charge (a Coke and a local beer both cost $3). The wine selection onboard features around-the-world offerings along with Chinese wines like the Great Wall and Chateau mi Shui.


Public Rooms
The lower lobby houses a beauty salon, open for coifs and manicures. There is a clinic staffed by a doctor trained in Eastern and Western medicine. Deck 2 is home to the reception desk and airy lobby with a central skylight and circular white and black marble floor.

Passengers gravitated to the ship's cozy, well-lit reading nooks furnished with comfortable couches and the popular Internet Bar. Despite an achingly slow connection, the four computers were in constant use. The reasonable rate of about $5 per hour is based on 30-minute increments.

The observation lounge has a glitzier vibe than the rest of the vessel -- a disco ball and stage lights hang above a circular dance floor. The best part of the lounge: floor-to-ceiling windows revealing stunning views of the Three Gorges.

The ship also features a centrally located cigar bar, a gift shop with logo clothing and souvenirs, and a small but attractive library with a limited selection of books and board games.

Cabins
Each cabin (all are outsides) has a private bathroom and shower, balcony, telephone, television, air conditioning, safe, and hairdryer. Standard cabins measure 221 square ft. For more space, there are suites, junior suites and slightly larger superior cabins. Balconies are furnished with a pair of plastic chairs.

Our standard cabin was a soothing, tranquil space, decorated in hues that complemented the muted rusts, browns and greens of the Three Gorges. The beds couldn't be cozier -- a simple white feather duvet, gold bed skirt and two comfortable pillows against a teak headboard. Happily, our luggage tucked neatly under the bed. We found the closet ample, with safe, shelves and shoe storage.

The small but well-designed bathroom features a white sink and chrome faucets, wedge-shaped shower, medicine cabinet, phone and two door hooks and a full assortment of Viking River Cruises' brand amenities. Since tap water is not potable, two complimentary bottles of water are left in the bath each day.

The television features English language selections but, oddly, the location is awkward -- I actually had to lie on my left side to watch it.

Entertainment
The observation lounge is the main entertainment venue. A Hungarian couple often played "easy listening" and dance music. My favorite entertainment came during the farewell dinner, when a trio played traditional Chinese instruments. The music was unforgettable.


Spa & Fitness
Think of the foot massage as a cultural experience and sign up right away at the reception desk. You won't be sorry. Appointments filled completely when the buzz started spreading.

Dress Code
Though Century Sky's atmosphere is casual with no official dress code and no formal night, most guests dressed smart casual for dinner and a bit dressier for the farewell dinner.

Gratuity
Century Sky Cruises recommends tipping $7 to $10 per person, per day for the shipboard staff and crew. This can be charged to your credit card.

Note: The vessel can't accept traveler's checks or exchange money. The final bill can either be paid with cash (renminbi, euros or dollars), or charged to a credit card.